and Operating Instructions for HiViz.com Kits
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If you're using your own shutter cable rather than one one of ours, see the instructions below. While the instructions are written for the Nikon MC-30 cable, the same steps may be used for other cables. The connector for the camera, of course, may be different than that for the MC-30. For your cable, you'll need
to identify which wires have the shutter, AE/AF, and
common functions. They may not necessarily have the
same colors as those in the instructions below, and even if the colors are
the same, the functions may be different. Some cables
may have more than 3 wires, so you first have to determine
which ones are the 3 relevant wires. To do this, open
the pushbutton switch enclosure to see which wires are
connected to the contacts. You should find inside what
amounts to a two-stage switch with three contacts. One
contact will be common to both stages. Another contact
is for the half press of the button and a third for
the full press. Once you've determined which 3 wires
are the important ones, then you can proceed with the
MC-30 instructions, making appropriate substitutions
If you have a continuity checker, you can use it together with the photos below to identify which pins have which functions.
Click on any photo for a larger view.
Cut the cable in two about 6 inches
from the pushbutton remote. Set aside the remote
for now. In Steps 2-4, you'll work with the
camera end of the cable. In Step 5, we'll show you how to add a connector to the pushbutton end of the cable in order to restore its functionality.
For this step and the next, use
the section of cable that has the 10-pin connector
on one end. You'll also need the male 3.5mm
plug. The plug is shown in the upper photo with
the jacket removed.
Slip the jacket onto the cut end
of the cable as shown in the lower photo. Strip
about a quarter inch of the outer black insulation
off the cable. Then strip an 1/8" off each
of the yellow, red, and white conductors.
Photo 1 shows where the three
wires will be connected to the solder lugs.
For reference, we've shown which part of the
plug (tip, ring, or sleeve) each lug is electrically
connected to. You'll make connections through
the holes in the solder lugs indicated by the
You'll need to thread each wire
through its lug and solder it. This can be difficult
so be patient. For each wire, twist the strands
together first. Then drag the tip of the soldering
iron over the twisted strands. The solder will
help to keep the strands from unraveling when
you thread them through the holes. This is called tinning the wire. Here are some other
things to be careful of when soldering:
Photo 3 shows the completed solder joints.
Don't crimp the metal tabs around the cable
before soldering. If you do, the heat will
melt the insulation and expose bare wires.
If you can't get all the strands of each
wire through the hole, don't worry. You
can clip off the stray strands later.
The lug for the white wire can take a lot
of heating since there's so much metal.
Make sure that it gets hot enough for the
solder to flow freely. Remember to keep
fingers away from the hot metal parts. Photo
2 shows a good solder joint for this lug.
- When you're finished, examine the connections
under a magnifying glass. If there are any
stray strands of wire, clip them off. Make
sure that there are no strands that short
from one lug to another. If you have a connectivity
meter, use it to check for correct connectivity
between the tip, ring, and sleeve of the plug
and the corresponding lugs.
Now you can crimp the metal tabs
around the black cable as shown in Photo 1.
After crimping, slide the jack on and screw
it into place. The completed plug is shown in
Photo 3 shows the completed cable.
The stereo plug will connect to the camera output jack on your trigger.
For this step, you'll be using
the part of the cable that has the pushbutton
remote. Note that you need only carry out this
step if you want to reassemble the original
cable that you cut.
When you started work on the cable,
you cut off the pushbutton end of the cable.
In case you want to be able to reassemble the
cable to use the pushbutton at some point, you
need to add a female 3.5mm connector to the
cable. The connector with the jacket removed
is shown in Photo 1.
Cut off the collar of the plastic
jacket as shown in Photo 2. This will make it
easier to slip the jacket on the cable.
Now slip the jacket onto the cut
end of the cable. (Photo 3)
Strip the three wires as you did
in Step 2 above. (Photo 4)
You'll thread the wires onto the
solder lugs as shown in Photo 5. You'll find
this difficult. Tinning the wires first may
help. If you can't get all the strands through
the holes, you can trim them later.
The completed soldering job is
shown in Photo 6. Remember to examine the solder
joints closely and trim any stray wires. Crimp
the tabs of the sleeve onto the cable.
Slip the jacket over the wires
and screw into place as shown in Photo 7.
The final result with the stereo
connector on the pushbutton cable is shown in
Now reassemble the pushbutton
end of the cable with the camera end as shown
in Photo 9. Be sure to push the connectors together
Test the reassembled cable as
- Connect the 10-pin connector
to your camera and turn your camera on. Make
sure your camera is set in a mode that autofocuses
and the subject is far enough away for the
camera to focus on it. If nothing happened,
so far, so good.
- Depress the button on the pushbutton
remote halfway. Your camera should autofocus.
- Depress the button all the
way. The shutter should actuate.
If the cable passed the tests
above, congratulations! You made good connections.
If, however, your camera autofocused without
pressing the shutter button, that means the
white and yellow wires are shorted together.
Don't worry, take the jacket off, find the short,
and remove it. If your camera shutter actuated
before pressing the button, then you have a
short between the red and white wires. Take
off the jacket and fix it.