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Assembly and Operating Instructions for HiViz.com Kits

 

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Assembly Instructions for the Camera Opto-Switch Kit (COS, Build 4)

 

Assembly instructions for other kits

 

Build 4 kits were sold beginning June 10, 2012. The Build number is given in the upper right-hand corner of the paper instructions provided with the kit.

 

Contents

 

Introduction

Parts guide (opens in new window)

Tools needed

Switch box and circuit board assembly

Preparing the breadboard adapter cable

The shutter cable

Operation of the Camera Opto-Switch

Connections chart

 

Introduction

 

HiViz.com breadboard trigger circuits have SCR outputs to act as electronic switches for flash units. In some cases, you may wish to trigger a camera rather than a flash unit. The Camera Opto-Switch Kit is designed to trigger electronic camera shutters from the outputs of HiViz.com breadboard circuits. The Opto-Switch would also be used to trigger a camera with the SK3 Sound Trigger and the PCB for Multi-Trigger (MT-PCB3). In order to check whether your trigger circuit requires an Opto-Switch, see this chart.

 

Cautionary notes:

  1. While the Camera Opto-Switch can also be used to trigger flash units, some older flash units may have several hundred volts across the PC terminal. This voltage may burn out the optoisolator IC. Therefore, we only recommend using the Camera Opto-Switch with flash units if you're sure that the flash unit has low voltage (<80 V) across its terminals.

  2. When wired and connected correctly, the Camera Opto-Switch can't damage your camera. The optoisolator provides electrical isolation for the camera. The customer assumes liability for any consequences of incorrect wiring. Most likely, these would simply be that the trigger wouldn't work but with no damage to the camera. The fact that the input and output sides of the PC board are separate minimizes the possibility of an inadvertent electrical connection across the optoisolator.

Tools needed

For wire cutting, trimming, and stripping: wire strippers, needle-nose pliers, small diagonal cutter (recommended for snipping wire ends after soldering)

    Wire cutters and stripper

    Small diagonal cutter

    Needle-nose pliers

For soldering: 15-30 watt soldering iron, solder, wet sponge, magnifying glass recommended (to view solder connections up close)

For project box assembly: small wrench or pliers

For drilling holes in the project box lid: drill motor, 3/32", 1/4", 9/32" bits (The 1/4" bit can be used in place of the 9/32" bit and the hole widened with a file.)

    Soldering Tips

    • Solder in a well-lit, well-ventilated, open area. Avoid contact with all metal surfaces on the iron.

    • Keep the tip of the soldering iron clean by wiping it against a wet sponge or towel before and after each use. A clean tip should look shiny and silvery; any yellow or black material on the tip will get into the solder and may weaken your solder joint.

    • Once the tip of your soldering iron is clean, touch a bit of solder to the tip just before use. This is called tinning, and helps the solder run more evenly.

    • Heat the connection to be soldered by holding the soldering iron to it, until solder applied at the junction between the two melts and flows freely. This ensures the connection and the solder are both hot enough to yield a good solder joint. This should take no more than 10-15 seconds. After the connection is heated, try to get solder along the entire length of the connection by briskly moving the solder and iron along.

    • Avoid touching only the solder to the connection, and then the soldering iron to the solder to melt it onto the connection. The connection will be cooler than the melted solder and won’t form a good solder joint.

    • Let new solder joints cool for several seconds before examining them. There should be solder all the way around the connection, forming a rigid joint. When done, unplug your soldering iron and let it cool.

 

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Switch box and circuit board assembly

Adding the 8-pin IC socket

Step 1: Adding the 8-pin IC socket

 

Insert the 8-pin IC socket into the holes in the unplated side of the PC board as shown to the left.

Crimping the legs of the IC socket
Soldering the legs of the IC socket

Step 2: Crimping and soldering the legs of the IC socket

 

Turn the PC board over to show the plated side. Bend the legs of the IC socket outward to hold it in place (see the upper photo).

 

Solder each leg of the IC socket to the corresponding copper strip as shown in the lower photo. In order to get a good solder joint, make sure the solder runs freely on the copper contact and covers the leg. Also make sure the solder doesn't bridge across to a neighboring contact. A magnifying glass comes in handy here. Solder bridges can be extremely fine and hard to see. If you get a solder bridge, you can remove it by running the tip of the soldering iron between the contacts that are bridged.

 

If the solder beads up and seems to sit on top of the copper, it's possible that you have a cold solder joint. Such connections do not conduct. You may think that you've made the connection when, in fact, no current will flow. You can guard against cold solder joints by heating the copper with the tip of the soldering iron and then touching the solder to the copper rather than to the tip of the soldering iron. If you think you may have a cold solder joint, reheat the solder and try to draw off the solder bead. Then resolder.

Adding the resistor
Resistor from underside of board
Soldered resistor

Step 3: Adding the resistor

 

Insert the legs of the 100-Ω resistor through the non-plated side of the PC board as shown in the upper image. Then turn the board over and solder the legs onto the copper contacts as shown in the middle image. Snip the legs off down to the solder. The completed solder joints are shown in the lower image.

Adding the input wires

Input wires soldered

Step 4: Adding the input wires

 

Strip back the insulation on the red and black hook up wires about 1/8 inch.

 

Insert the wires into the board as shown in the upper photo.

 

Turn the board over and solder the wires to the copper contacts. Snip the wires off down to the solder. (lower photo)

Adding the output wires

Step 5: Adding the output wires

 

Strip back the insulation on the yellow and one of the blue hook up wires about 1/8 inch.

 

Insert the wires into the board as shown.

 

Turn the board over and solder the wires to the copper contacts. Snip the wires off down to the solder. (photo not shown)

Drilling the project box lid

Step 6: Drilling the project box lid

 

A template is supplied to lay out the holes to be drilled in the lid of the project box. Lay the lid on a table with the underside facing up. Then place the template inside the lid as shown to the left. Use a nail or punch to mark the locations of the centers of the holes. Then remove the template and drill the holes to the indicated diameters.

Lid after drilling

Lining up a switch with the key hole

Step 7: Adding the first toggle switch to the project box

 

After drilling the holes, turn the lid over. It should look like the upper photo to the left. Take one of the toggle switches and remove the nut, lock washer, and retaining ring. Slip the switch into the lid from below as shown in the lower photo. Lower the retaining ring onto the switch so that the tab on the inside of the ring slips into the channel on the switch. Then orient the assembly so that the tab on the outer side of the ring slips into the small hole on the project box. While holding the assembly in this position, drop the lock washer onto the switch and then screw on the nut. Tighten with a wrench or pliers.

 

Lid of box with all parts from above
view from above

 

Lid of box with all parts from below

view from below

Step 8: Adding the remaining components to the project box

 

a. Add the second toggle switch to the project box.

 

b. Remove the nut and washer from the pushbutton switch. Slip the pushbutton into the center hole from below. Place the washer over the threads and screw on the nut. Tighten with a wrench or pliers.

 

c. Remove the nut and the metal tab from the RCA panel jack. Slip the jack down into the lower-right hole on the project box. Then slip the washer and ring onto the jack from below and screw on the nut and tighten.

 

d. Remove the nut from the 3.5mm stereo jack. Slip the jack into the upper-right hole from below. Then screw on the nut and tighten.

 

The completed assembly is shown from above (upper photo) and below (lower photo).

bb_004.jpg (82428 bytes)

3.5mm stereo panel jack

Step 9: Connecting the yellow wire

 

Now you'll connect wires between the components on the lid of the project box. Start with a 2-in section of yellow wire. Strip the wire back about a quarter of an inch on both ends. Loop one end of the wire through lug 2 of the stereo panel jack as shown in the upper photo. Note that the jack has three terminals. The lower photo should help to identify the lugs.

 

Loop the other end of the wire around the left lug of the upper toggle switch.

Connecting the blue wires
 

Step 10: Connecting the blue wires

 

For the next connections, you'll need 1-in and 2-in sections of the blue wire. Strip the ends. Loop both of the wires through lug 1 of the stereo jack.

 

Loop the other end of the shorter wire through either lug of the pushbutton switch.

 

Loop the other end of the longer wire to the center lug of the upper toggle switch.

Connecting the white wires
 

Step 11: Connecting the white wires

 

For the next connections, you'll need two 3" sections of the white wire. Strip the ends. Loop both of the wires through lug 3 of the stereo jack.

 

Loop the other end of one of the wires through the unused lug of the pushbutton switch.

 

Loop the other end of the second wire through the left lug of the lower toggle switch.

Soldering connections
 

Step 12: Soldering connections

 

You can solder some of the connections. These are the ones circled in green in the photo to the left. The connections that can be soldered now include all of the pushbutton and stereo jack connections and the left lugs of both switches. You'll be adding two more wires to the center lugs of the switches in a later step, and you'll solder those lugs at that time.

Soldering the optoisolator input wires to the RCA panel jack

 

Close up of connections to RCA jack

Step 13: Soldering the optoisolator input wires to the RCA panel jack

 

Now you'll start soldering wires from the PC board to the components on the lid of the project box. Strip back the free ends of the red and black wires and loop them through the contacts of the RCA panel jack as shown in the upper photo. Note that the red wire is connected to the center contact. A close up of the connections is shown in the lower photo.

Soldering the optoisolator output wires to the switches

Step 14: Soldering the optoisolator output wires to the switches

 

Strip back the free ends of the blue and yellow wires coming from the PC board. Loop the yellow wire through the center lug of the lower switch. Loop the blue wire through the center lug of the upper switch. You can solder both connections now.

 

Adding the optoisolator

Step 15: Adding the optoisolator

 

Place the optoisolator on the 8-pin socket on the PC board as shown in the photo. Note that the dot on the chip is to the lower right. Make sure the legs of the chip are inserted into the correct holes. Then push down gently until the chip is firmly seated.

bb_004.jpg (82428 bytes)

Step 16: Assembling the box

 

Lower the PC board connected to the lid into the bottom of the project box as shown. Then screw the lid on with the 4 screws supplied.

Adding the labels

Step 17: Adding the labels

 

Cut the strip of labels into individual labels, remove the backing, and stick on the box lid in the locations shown.

 

Back to top

 

Preparing the Breadboard Adapter Cable

 

This cable is only needed if you're connecting the Opto-Switch to a breadboard circuit. Otherwise, you can skip to the next section.

 

Adding red and black wires to the female RCA connector
 

Step 1. Adding red and black wires to the female RCA connector

 

Unscrew the black jacket from the female RCA connector. Cut one 3-in length each of red and black wire and strip back one end 1/8 inch. Then thread the wires to the RCA connector. The red wire connects to the shorter lug. Don't crimp the tabs on the sleeve yet.

Soldering the wires
 

Step 2. Soldering the wires

 

Solder the wires to the lugs. Be sure to heat up each lug before melting solder on it. You'll get faster flow if you tin the tip of the iron with solder first.

Crimping the tabs
 

Step 3. Crimping the tabs

 

Now you can crimp the tabs over to hold the wires tightly.

Completing the cable
 

Step 4. Completing the cable

 

Screw the black jacket on to complete the cable adapter.

 

Shutter Cables

 

The shutter cables are provided separately from the Camera Opto-Switch Box Kit. The cables include a 2.5mm to 3.5mm adapter to connect the shutter cable to the Opto-Switch box.

Kit Version Compatible with Cameras Camera plug

Cable

RSC-80N3 Canon EOS 7D, 10D, 20D, 30D, 40D, 50D, 5D Mark II, 1Ds Mark III, 1D Mark IV, 1D Mark III RS-80N3 connector RS-80N3 shutter cable
RSC-60E3

Canon EOS Rebel series, EOS 60D, 300D, 350D, 400D, 450D, 500D, 550D, 1000D, Powershot G10, G11, G1; Pentax K20D, K7

RS-60E3 connector Canon RS-60E3 shutter cable
RSC-MC30

Nikon D1/D2/D3 series, D100, D200, D300, D300s, D700, F5, F6, F100, F90, F90x; Kodak DCS-14N, Fuji Finepix S3pro, S5pro

MC-30 connector MC30 shutter cable

RSC-MCD2

Nikon D90, D3100, D5000, D7000 MCD2 connector MCDC2 shutter cable
RSC-S1 Sony Alpha A100, A200 ,A290, A300, A350 ,A380 ,A390, A450, A500, A550, A580, A700, A850, A900SLT-A33, A55, Minolta Maxxum 5D, 7D, 7, 9xi, 7xi, 5xi Sony S1 connector Sony S1 shutter cable
RSC-DIY 3.5mm stereo connectorsThe customer provides the cable. We provide the 3.5mm male and female stereo connectors shown to the right to modify your shutter cable for the Opto-Switch box. See these assembly instructions.

 

Operation of the Camera Opto-Switch

Figure 1. The Opto-Switch box Figure 2. Connecting the Opto-Switch to an MT-PCB2, MT-PCB3, SK3, or MTE-PCB
Camera Opto-Switch box Connecting the Opto-Switch to a Multi-Trigger PCB
  1. Refer to the photo above. Begin with the Focus and Shutter switches in the the OFF positions (to the left).
  2. Turn off the camera before inserting the 3.5mm plug from your shutter cable into the CAM jack on the switch box. Be sure to push the plug in all the way.
  3. Insert one end of the trigger cable (the RCA cable) into the TRIG jack on the switch box.
  4. Connect the other end of the trigger cable as described in the panels to the right.
  5. Turn your camera on and set it in a mode that will autofocus. Make sure that the subject of the photograph is far enough away for the camera to focus on it.
  6. Flip the Focus switch on the switch box to on. The camera should autofocus. (See note below.)
  7. Depress and release the pushbutton. The shutter should actuate. (This is for testing purposes and for manual operation of the shutter.)
  8. Flip the Shutter switch on. Nothing should happen, but…
  9. …when your trigger circuit fires, the camera shutter should actuate.
  10. As long as you have the Focus and Shutter switches turned on and the switch box connected to the trigger circuit, the shutter can actuate repeatedly with repeated triggering events. If you want to decrease the repetition rate and you're using a delay unit, increase the reset delay (timeout). See your trigger instructions for how to do that.
  11. In order to view the photos you've taken, flip the switches to their OFF positions. The LCD view screen on your camera may be disabled as long as the Focus switch is on.
  12. Turn off the camera before disconnecting the 3.5mm plug from the switch box.
Note about the FOCUS switch: Generally, you won't set your camera to autofocus for high-speed photography. We asked you to set the camera for autofocus above just for testing purposes. Even when your camera is set for manual focusing, you may still need to flip the FOCUS switch on the Opto-Switch to the ON position. Nikon camera models, for example, require this. Canon models, on the other hand, do not require the FOCUS switch to be on.

On the MT-PCB3, the instant and delayed pulse outputs may be used to trigger a camera via an Opto-Switch. The pulse output is connected to the TRIG input of the Opto-Switch with a male-to-male RCA cable.

 

For the SK3 Sound Trigger, the pulse output is connected to TRIG jack of the Opto-Switch.

 

For the discontinued products, MT-PCB2 and MTE-PCB, the pulse outputs are labeled as CAM outputs and are connected as above.

 

The MT2 and CBP2 triggers do not require an Opto-Switch.

Figure 3. Connecting the Opto-Switch to a breadboard
Connecting the Opto-Switch to a Multi-Trigger breadboard

For the Multi-Trigger breadboard or other breadboard circuits, the male-to-male RCA cable is used together with the breadboard cable adapter as shown above. The connection points of the red and black wires for all of our breadboard circuits are given in the COS connections chart at the bottom of this page.

 

The breadboard version of the Crossed-Beam Photogate (CBP-O) does not require an Opto-Switch.

Connections Chart for the Camera Opto-Switch

 

The trigger cable of the Opto-Switch connects to Hiviz breadboard circuits (v10) as given below.

 

Note that the hole placements for the SK2, SPG1, SPG2, TPG, LAT, and DU individually are the same as for the combinations SK2-DU, SPG1-DU, SPG2-DU, TPG-DU, and LAT-DU.

 

Trigger circuit Output Note Connections
Positive Negative
DU - Delay unit Immediate   20B ground column
Delayed   23D
SK2 - Sound trigger   You must also remove the wire from 5C to 8C to disconnect the SCR. 5D
SPG1,2- Schmitt trigger photogate     4A
TPG - Transistor photogate     3H
LAT - Light-activated trigger     5A
MT - Multi-Trigger Immediate   16B
Delayed   18D
Photogate   4A
Sound You must also remove the wire from 27D to 29D to disconnect the SCR. 27E

 

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