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Assembly and Operating Instructions for HiViz.com Kits

 

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Assembly Instructions for the PCB for the Multi-Trigger (MT-PCB3)

 

Assembly instructions for other kits

 

Contents

 

What you need

Parts guide (opens in new tab or window)

Printable schematic and parts list

Soldering the fixed-value resistors to the PCB

Soldering the IC sockets to the PCB

Soldering the variable resistors to the PCB

Soldering the capacitors to the PCB

Soldering the semiconductors to the PCB

Soldering the LEDs to the PCB

Soldering the switches and jacks to the PCB

The photogate cables

The microphone cable

Preparing an external input cable

Preparing the trigger cable

Operating the PCB Multi-Trigger (opens in new window)

 

About the images: Clicking on any image will open a larger version on top of the page. If you prefer to have the larger images open in a different tab or window, right click on the image and make the appropriate selection.

 

What you need

 

PCB for Multi-TriggerThese instructions show how to prepare and use the PC board for the Multi-Trigger Kit, MT-PCB3. This kit comes complete with all the parts needed for assembly of a working Multi-Trigger on a PC board. The PC board is shown to the right. Click on it for a larger view. You'll see that the locations for the components are labeled with symbols like R1, C1, etc. This makes it easy to find where to place the components. You'll need to solder the components to the back (non-printed side) of the PCB. We'll provide guidelines for getting good solder joints, but we recommend that you have previous experience soldering on a PC board. With soldering, you can't make changes easily like you can with a breadboard. If you solder something in the wrong place, repair can be time-consuming.

 

Having the right tools will make the job easier. You'll need to provide your own. Here's what we recommend.

  1. 15-30 W soldering iron (with a new or pointed tip) and solder
  2. Wire stripper (photo below)

  3. A small diagonal cutter (photo below) makes it easy to trim the legs of the components after you solder them to the PCB, but other kinds of snipping tools such as scissors may work.

  4. Needle-nose pliers (photo below) make it easier to handle small components, especially if you have big fingers.

  5. A heat sink (photos below) protects heat-sensitive components while soldering.

  6. A desoldering tool (photos below) helps in clearing solder from a hole. The cylindrical type works better than the bulb.

  7. A magnifying glass is used to inspect solder joints.

  8. A lighter or matches to shrink heat-shrink tubing

  9. Hot glue gun

    Wire cutters and stripper

    Small diagonal cutter

    diagonal cutter

    Needle-nose pliers

    needle-nose pliers

    Heat sinks

    heat sink clipheat sink clip

    Desoldering tools

    desoldering tool desoldering bulb

     

Be sure to solder in a well-ventilated area. Keep the tip of your soldering iron clean by wiping it against a wet sponge. Once the tip is clean, touch a bit of solder to the tip to tin it and improve heat conductivity. Inspect your solder joints to see if the solder flowed well to make good electrical contact. If it looks like the solder formed a bead, that's likely a bad joint and will not conduct. Reheat to flow the solder.

 

Parts Guide

 

Click here for a detailed, illustrated list of all the parts you'll need. You can use this list to identify the parts and make sure you have them all. Also, you may find it helpful to print out the 4th page of this pdf document. It lists all the PCB components and their PCB labels. If you're into electronics, you may also wish to view the circuit diagram on page 2 to see how the components fit into the circuit.

 

Printable Schematic and Parts List

 

It may be helpful to print this pdf document for reference while you work.The document contains a list of the parts and their IDs on the PC board. If you're comfortable with reading circuit schematics, there's a complete schematic of the circuit.

 

Soldering the Fixed-Value Resistors to the PCB

 

100k-ohm resistorIf you don't have your soldering iron heated up, do that now, because you'll be soldering before long. You'll be doing some detailed soldering work, so an iron with a good tip will make it easier. Let's start with R1, a 100-kohm resistor. See the photo to the right, and refer to the Parts Guide as needed for parts to come. The resistors are identified by the sequence of 3 colored bands, read from left-to-right. (The 4th, gold band indicates that the actual value of the resistance is plus or minus 5% of the value given by the color code.) For the resistor shown to the right, the bands are brown-black-yellow

 

  1. Insert the legs of resistor R1 over the rectangular space labeled R1 on the PCB. See Figure 1. You can flip the resistor either way in the holes; the orientation doesn't matter for resistors, since resistors work the same no matter which way current flows in them.

  2. Push the resistor in until it's flush with the surface of the PCB. Then flip the PCB over. Figure 2 shows the legs protruding from the back of the board.

  3. Next you'll solder. Tin the tip of the soldering iron by melting some solder on it. Then bring the point and the solder down to one of the holes where the resistor protrudes as in Figure 3. Melt some solder around the base; it doesn't take much. The solder should flow down into the hole around the leg of the resistor to make a good electrical joint. Now solder the other leg.

  4. Turn the board over to verify that solder filled the holes. See Figure 4. If you don't see that solder melted through to the upper side, it's probably a good idea to melt some more solder into the hole from the back of the board.

  5. When your solder joints are complete, you can snip off the legs of the resistor down to the solder joint or you can wait to snip legs until after you've added more components.

inserting R1 R1 from back of PCB Soldering a leg of the resistor R1 soldered from front of PCB
Figure 1. Resistor R1 inserted into dedicated space on PCB Figure 2. Legs of resistor R1 protruding from back of PCB Figure 3. Soldering a leg of the resistor Figure 4. Inspecting the finished solder joints
  1. Go ahead now and solder the remaining fixed-value resistors onto the board.Don't solder the five variable resistors yet; that will be in a later step. Something to be aware of is that there are two kinds of holes on the board: solder holes and via holes. The solder holes are for the component legs. The via holes, which are smaller than the solder holes, are places where there are connections between the upper and lower conducting layers of the board. To see what we mean, click on Figure 5, which shows a small section of the board. The via holes have been circled in yellow. Don't try to solder components into via holes. When you've finished soldering the resistors, your board should look similar to Figure 6.
via holes board with all resistors
Figure 5. Via holes (circled in yellow) and solder holes Figure 6. PC board with all fixed-value resistors mounted

 

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Soldering the IC sockets to the PCB

 

The 8-pin and 14-pin IC sockets will be used to seat the 555 and 556 timers. The latter won't be added to the sockets until later, since the ICs can potentially be damaged by heat.

  1. See Figure 7. Note that the socket has a notch on one end. You'll line this notch up with the one on the PCB when you seat the socket into the board.

  2. Place the 8 pins of the socket into the corresponding holes on the PCB as shown in Figure 8.

  3. Turn the board over and bend the pins down to the side to hold the socket in place as shown in Figure 9.

  4. Solder the 8 pins to the board. The finished result is shown in Figure 10. Check with a magnifying glass to make sure there are no solder bridges or hairs between pins. If so, remove them by running the tip of the soldering iron between the pin.

  5. Solder the 14-pin socket to the board similar to how you did the 8-pin socket.

8-pin socket notch seating the 8-pin socket Crimping the 8-pin socket 8-pin socket soldered to PCB
Figure 7. Notches on the socket and the PCB Figure 8. 8-pin socket seated on PCB Figure 9. Crimping the pins of the 8-pin socket Figure 10. 8-pin socket soldered to PCB

 

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Soldering the Variable Resistors to the PCB

  1. There are 5 variable resistors (also called potentiometers or pots). Each has three legs and a knob that is rotated to adjust the resistance. Figure 11 shows the 10-k pot sitting on the PC board next to the area designated for it to be mounted. Go ahead and place the pot over the three mounting holes. Seat the legs of the pot into the holes. Then melt solder into the three holes from the back of the board. When you're finished, the pot should be mounted firmly in place.

  2. Solder the other 4 pots onto the board. The board with all resistors and sockets is shown in Figure 12.

via holes board with all resistors and sockets
Figure 11. 10-k variable resistor and mounting holes Figure 12. PC board with all resistors and sockets

 

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Soldering the Capacitors to the PCB

 

There are two kinds of capacitors, ceramic and electrolytic. We'll start with the ceramic capacitors. There are 6 of these; they all have a disc shape and are orange or yellow in color. A number on the disc identifies the capacitor. The ceramic capacitor on the left in Figure 13, for example, has the number 473. From the Parts Guide, you can determine that this is a 0.047-μf capacitor.

 

  1. Ceramic capacitors, like resistors, are non-polar. So it doesn't matter if you flip them one way or the other other in the solder holes. Slip the ceramic capacitors in the holes now as shown in Figure 14. Bend the legs over on the back.

  2. Turn the board over and solder the capacitor legs like you did the resistor legs.

  3. There are two electrolytic capacitors. These have cylindrical metal cases with the value of the capacitance printed on them. See the photo of a 10-μf electrolytic capacitor in Figure 13. These capacitors are polar; that is, they have a positive and negative side. Therefore, there's only one way to mount them in the PCB. You'll see that the locations of the positive and negative sides for an electrolytic capacitor are marked on the PCB. For example, note the positive (+) sign for C3 in Figure 15. This is the side of the capacitor with the longer leg. Place the two capacitors on the board now as shown in Figure 16. Then turn the board over and solder the legs. Figure 17 shows the PC board with all components mounted so far.

  4. If you haven't snipped off the legs of the components protruding from the back, do that now. Snip them at the solder joint. You don't want to have any legs that can be bent over and touch other legs to create short circuits.

0.0047-uf capacitor10-uf capacitor mouting the ceramic capacitors location of C3 with polarity indicated electrolytic capacitors on PCB
Figure 13. Ceramic (left) and electrolytic (right) capacitors Figure 14. Mounting the ceramic capacitors Figure 15. Polarity for C3 is indicated on the PCB Figure 16. Electrolytic capacitors seated on PCB (polarity indicated)
PCB with all capacitors mounted      
Figure 17. PCB with all capacitors mounted      

 

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Soldering the Semiconductors to the PCB

  1. There are 5 semiconductors, one transistor and four SCRs. They look alike except for the lettering on the face. You'll mount the transistor first. Look for the part that says PN2222A on the face. Slip it into the PC board as shown in Figure 18. Note that the flat side faces toward the inside of the board. This orientation is required for correct operation of the circuit.

  2. Soldering the semiconductors takes special care, because the components can be damaged by getting too hot. A way to bleed off excessive heat is to use a heat sink as shown in Figure 19. The heat sink is just a metal clip that grasps the leg to be soldered. The alternative to a heat sink is to solder quickly. If you find yourself taking too much time, wait a while to allow the component to cool before continuing. Solder on the back side like you did for the other components. Avoid the temptation to linger while soldering; the hole will fill before you know it. Turn the board over to check the other side to make sure that too much solder hasn't bled through.

  3. When you finish soldering the three legs, inspect carefully for solder bridges on both the front and back sides of the board. The legs of the transistor are so close together that solder bridges are a likelihood. Inspect under a magnifying glass for fine solder hairs. See Figures 20 and 21 for how your finished solder joints should look.

mounting the PN2222A transistor Using a heat sink on a transistor leg Inspecting for solder bridges Transistor soldered to PCB
Figure 18. Mounting the PN2222A transistor. Note the flat side. Figure 19. Using a heat sink on a transistor leg Figure 20. Inspecting for solder bridges Figure 21. Transistor soldered to PCB
SCR for photogate output (front view) Sound trigger output SCR Delay unit output SCRs  
Figure 22: D1 SCR positioned on board Figure 23: D2 SCR for ST Out Figure 24: D3 and D4 SCRs for instant and delayed outputs  
  1. Now let's move on to the SCRs. These have EC103D written on the face. Insert the legs of an SCR into the D1 location as shown in Figure 22. Make sure the flat side faces toward the 8-pin socket. The flat side also coincides with the symbol printed on the board. Solder the legs of the SCR as you did for the transistor.

  2. Position SCR D2 for the sound trigger as shown in Figure 23 and solder into place.

  3. Position SCRs D3 and D4 for the instant and delayed outputs as shown in Figure 24 and solder into place.

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Soldering the LEDs to the PCB

 

The red LEDs are polar devices. The shorter leg is connected to the negative side of the circuit.

  1. Position LED1 as shown in Figure 26. Note that there is a flat side on the symbol on the PCB; this flat corresponds to the flat on the lip of the LED case. This is the negative side. Like the transistor and SCRs, you have to be careful not to heat up the LED too much while soldering. Either use a heat sink or solder quickly.

  2. Position LED 2 and LED3 similar to how you positioned LED1 and solder. The board with all components mounted so far is shown in Figure 27.
Aligning the LED on the breadboard PCB with LEDs mounted
Figure 26. Aligning the LED on the breadboard Figure 27. PCB with LEDs mounted

 

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Soldering the Switches and Jacks to the PCB

  1. Insert the push button into the rectangle labeled Test on the PCB. See Figure 28. Solder the four legs. Then insert the 9VDC jack next to push button and solder the 3 legs of the jack.

  2. Insert the toggle switch as shown in Figure 29. Note that the metal plate on the face of the switch says ON - ON. You'll ignore this when you actually use the switch. The ON - OFF labels printed on the PCB are the relevant ones.
  3. There are two SPDT slide switches to be mounted into the locations on the PCB labeled Input Selector and Delay Range Selector. There are two versions of these switches, one version has a black body and the other has a red body (See the Parts List for photos of the parts.) If you have the black version, the legs will slip directly into the holes on the PCB. Due to the discontinuation of this part by our supplier, we're now providing the red version as a substitute. Since the legs on the red switch are inline, whereas the center hole on the PCB is offset, you'll need to bend the center leg outward just enough so that all three legs will fit in the PCB holes. Use pliers to bend the center leg outward as shown in Figure 29b. Be careful in doing this to avoid breaking off the leg. When you've bent the leg far enough, the switch will fit on the PCB as shown in Figure 29c. Solder the switches in place. Figure 30 shows the black slide switches on the PCB.

  4. Slip them into the locations on the PCB labeled Input Selector and Delay Range Selector as sown in Figure 30. They can only be inserted one way. Solder the three pins of each switch on the back of the PCB.

  5. There are two 3.5mm mono jacks. A photo is shown in Figure 31. Note the internal contacts. These distinguish the mono jack from the stereo jack shown in Figure 32. Another distinguishing feature is that the mono jack has 3 pins while the stereo jack has 4 pins. Seat the two mono jacks in the locations labeled Ext Input and Mic Jack on the board and solder the pins. See Figure 33.
  6. Seat the one 3.5mm stereo jack in the location labeled PG Jack on the board and solder the pins. See Figure 34.
  7. There are five RCA jacks. Snap them into place as shown in Figure 35. Turn the board over. You need only solder the 10 holes indicated in Figure 36. These are the electrical contacts. If you want to solder the other holes to hold the jacks even more tightly, that's fine.

  8. There's one thing left to add to the board. That's the 9V battery clip. Solder the red and black wires into the holes labeled B+ and B- respectively. See Figure 37.

Pushbutton and 9VDC jack seated on board toggle switch seated on board Red slide switch with center leg bent outward red slide switch on board
Figure 28. Pushbutton and 9VDC jack seated on board Figure 29. Toggle switch seated on board Figure 29b. Red slide switch showing center leg bent outward Figure 29c. Red slide switch in position on board (prior to soldering)
Slide switches seated on board 3.5mm mono jack 3.5mm stereo jack 3.5mm mono jacks seated on board
Figure 30. Slide switches (black) seated on board Figure 31. 3.5mm mono jack Figure 32. 3.5mm stereo jack Figure 33. 3.5mm mono jacks seated on board
3.5mm stereo jack seated on board RCA jacks seated on PCB Soldering the RCA jacks Soldering the battery cable
Figure 34. 3.5mm stereo jack seated on board Figure 35. RCA jacks seated on PCB Figure 36. Soldering the RCA jacks Figure 37. Attaching the battery cable

 

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The Photogate Cables

 

Your kit includes parts for two types of photogate cables. What we call SPG1 has an individual emitter and detector. This is useful when you need large separations between the emitter and detector. The SPG2 cable uses an interrupter, which houses the emitter and detector in a U-shaped plastic housing about 5/8" apart. This is useful for triggering on the passage of a drop of liquid.

Variable-width photogate cable
IR LED and PT

About the variable-width cable

 

IR LED/PT connectionsThe variable-width cable uses a separate infrared LED emitter and infrared phototransistor (PT). The LED is the component with a blue case, and the PT has a clear case, as shown to the left. For both components, one leg is shorter than the other. The shorter leg is positive on the PT, while on the LED, the longer leg is positive. The figure to the right, courtesy of a helpful DIYer, provides a visual display of the connections that you'll be making to the infrared LED and phototransistor.

 

Here are the parts you'll need:

  • 3-conductor cable, 3-ft length
  • Yellow hookup wire, 1.5-ft length
  • Infrared phototransistor (clear case)
  • Infrared LED (blue case)
  • 3/32" heat shrink tubing (HST), 4" length
  • 3.5mm stereo plug

stripping the 3-conductor cable

stripping the yellow wire

twisting the red and yellow wires

Stripping the wires

 

At one end of the 3-conductor cable, strip the outer casing back by 9 inches. This will reveal the three inner conductors, colored red, black, and green. Strip each of these conductors back by ¾ inches. This will expose conductors that will be wrapped around the appropriate component legs later. See Photo 1 showing the cable after stripping.

 

 

 

 

Strip both ends of the yellow hookup wire back by 3/4 inches. See Photo 2.

 

 

 

 

 

Twist the red wire and one end of the yellow wire together tightly, as shown in Photo 3.

adding the heat-shrink tubing

Fitting the heat shrink tubing and making connections

 

Cut the heat shrink tubing (HST) into four 1" pieces. Place one piece over each wire (black, green, jumper, red+yellow) as shown in Photo 4, and slide it back onto the wire. Be on the lookout for pieces falling off if wires are held upside down.

 

 

 

 

Make connections by wrapping the wires around the legs of the PT and LED. When wrapping, try to get at least two complete turns; more are better. Before twisting any wires together, make sure the HST for that wire is still present and hasn't fallen off.

 

Make the following connections by twisting the wires around the component legs.

  • Twist the green wire tightly around the longer leg of the PT (clear case) and the black wire of the 3-conductor cable around the shorter leg of the LED (blue case). (See Photo 5.)
  • Twist the combined red+yellow wire around the longer leg of the LED and the other end of the yellow wire around the shorter leg of the PT.

 

When done, your connections should look like those in Photo 6.

soldering the legs

Soldering the connections

 

Trim any stray wire strands on the connections so the heat shrink tubing will slip over them.


It's a good idea to place a metal clip to serve as a heat sink between the head of the PT or LED and the leg where you will be soldering. (See Photo 7.) This will help avoid damage from overheating. If you don't use a heat sink, complete the soldering quickly to minimize heat buildup.

 

 

 

The completed soldering job is shown in Photo 8.

 

slipping on the HST

Adding the heat-shrink tubing

 

After soldering, slide the heat shrink tubing over each of the solder joints so that the legs of each component are insulated from each other. (See Photo 9.) Keep the pieces about 1/8” away from the component heads to protect them from overheating when the tubing is heated.


 

Using a lighter or a match, move the flame smoothly back and forth along the entire length of the tubing, with the tip of the flame just beneath it. (See Photo 10.) If you hold the flame too long in one spot or too closely to the tubing, you will notice smoke. If this happens, lower your flame and continue moving it back and forth.


The tubing will visibly shrink and will be acceptably tight-fitting after only 10-15 seconds of heating.

3.5mm stereo male connector

Preparing to connect the 3.5mm plug

 

The photogate cable will connect to the project box enclosure with a 3.5mm stereo male connector. One is shown in Photo 11. The process of adding a connector to the cut end of the 3-conductor cable is described next.

 

 

 

Remove the jacket of the connector and push it onto the cut end of the cable as shown in Photo 12.

 

 

 

Strip the gray insulation back about 1/4" and the individual wires about 1/8" as shown in Photo 13.

3-conductor cable with ends stripped for connector

Connections to the plug

 

The terminals of the connector are numbered in Photo 14. The black wire will connect to 1, the green wire to 2, and the red wire to 3. If you have trouble getting all the strands through a hole, you can clip off the strands that won't fit.

Soldered 3.5mm plug

Soldered 3.5mm plug

Soldering the connections

 

Here are some important things to keep in mind about soldering. First, don't crimp the tabs of the shaft around the cable before soldering. If you do, the heat of the soldering can melt the insulation and create a short. Secondly, tin the tip of the soldering iron with solder to improve conductivity. Then hold the tip on the metal near the wire to be soldered. Touch the wire to the metal, not to the tip of the iron. If you don't get the metal as hot as the melted solder, then the solder will bead up rather than flowing, and your connection may not actually conduct.

 

Photos 15 and 16 show two views of the completed soldering job. Snip any stray, unsoldered wires and make sure that the three conductors do not touch each other at any point.

 

Connector with tabs crimped

Completing the cable

 

Crimp the tabs around the cable as shown in Photo 17.

 

 

 

Screw the jacket on to complete the connector as shown in Photo 18.

 

 

 

 

The completed cable is shown in Photo 19.

Mounting the cable

 

Photo 20 shows one method of mounting the emitter and detector. Three sections of 1/2" PVC pipe and two PVC elbows are used. (These parts aren't provided.) A 13/64" hole is drilled through each of the two upright sections of PVC. Then a 1/4" hole is drilled through just the outer part of each section. This allows the emitter and detector each to be slipped through the corresponding hole on the outside without passing all the way through the pipe. Hot glue is used to hold the emitter and detector firmly in the mount. The wires are taped to the horizontal section of PVC. One could also drill a hole through the center of the horizontal section for a mounting bolt for the assembly.

The SPG2 Cable

interrupter

PC board

About the SPG2 cable

 

For this cable, the IR emitter and detector are housed in the U-shaped piece shown in Photo 1. In addition to this piece, you'll need the following parts:

  • 3-ft length of 3-conductor cable
  • the PC board shown in Photo 2
  • a 2-inch piece of red hookup wire
  • 3.5mm stereo plug

stripping the wires

Stripping the wires

 

At one end of the 3-conductor cable, strip the outer casing back by 2". Then strip the individual conductors back 1/8". See Photo 3.

interrupterPlacement of the interrupter on the PC board

 

Photo 4 shows where the interrupter is positioned on the PC board. Two holes are circled in red as indicators. The interrupter is positioned to the right of these holes.

The numbers 1-4 are overlaid on the photo as a guide to orienting the interrupter. The numbers correspond to those on the graphic of an interrupter to the right. The symbols and refer to the LED and phototransistor (PT) respectively. Insert the legs of the interrupter into the board in exactly the placement shown in Photo 4. This is important to insure that the connections that you make to the board go to the correct legs.

 

Once you've seated the interrupter, temporarily tape it down for soldering.

 

Photo 5 shows the board from below with the pins numbered the same as in Photo 5.

 

Soldering the interrupter to the PC board

 

 

Solder the pins of the interrupter to the copper contacts. Since you won't be able to use a heat sink on the short legs of the interrupter, solder quickly to avoid overheating the interrupter. Or you can solder one leg and then wait a while to solder the next in order to give the part time to cool. When you solder, fill the hole with solder and make sure the solder flows onto the copper to bond with it. Be careful not to create a solder bridge with a neighboring copper contact. If you do create a bridge, run the tip of the soldering iron between the contacts as needed to remove the bridge or use a desoldering tool. The completed soldering job is shown in Photo 6.

Adding a wire

 

Cut a section of hook up wire about an inch long and strip the ends. Insert the wire into the board as shown in Photo 7. Then solder the contacts from below.

connecting the 3-conductor cable to the PCB

connecting the 3-conductor cable to the PCB

Connecting the 3-conductor cable

 

Solder the three wires of the 3-conductor cable to the PC board in the locations shown in Photo 8.

 

 

 

 

The completed solder job is shown in Photo 9.

3.5mm stereo male connector

Preparing to connect the 3.5mm plug

 

If you've already prepared the SPG1 cable, the instructions that follow for adding the 3.5mm plug are the same as for that cable. They are repeated here for completeness.

 

The photogate cable will connect to the project box enclosure with a 3.5mm stereo male connector. One is shown in Photo 10. The process of adding a connector to the cut end of the 3-conductor cable is described next.

 

 

Remove the jacket of the connector and push it onto the cut end of the cable as shown in Photo 11.

 

 

 

Strip the gray insulation back about 1/4" and the individual wires about 1/8" as shown in Photo 12.

3-conductor cable with ends stripped for connector

Connections to the plug

 

The terminals of the connector are numbered in Photo 14. The black wire will connect to 1, the green wire to 2, and the red wire to 3. If you have trouble getting all the strands through a hole, you can clip off the strands that won't fit.

Soldered 3.5mm plug

Soldered 3.5mm plug

Soldering the connections

 

Here are some important things to keep in mind about soldering. First, don't crimp the tabs of the shaft around the cable before soldering. If you do, the heat of the soldering can melt the insulation and create a short. Secondly, tin the tip of the soldering iron with solder to improve conductivity. Then hold the tip on the metal near the wire to be soldered. Touch the wire to the metal, not to the tip of the iron. If you don't get the metal as hot as the melted solder, then the solder will bead up rather than flowing, and your connection may not actually conduct.

 

Photos 14 and 15 show two views of the completed soldering job. Snip any stray, unsoldered wires and make sure that the three conductors do not touch each other at any point.

 

Connector with tabs crimped

Completing the cable

 

Crimp the tabs around the cable as shown in Photo 16.

 

 

 

Screw the jacket on to complete the connector as shown in Photo 17.

 

 

 

 

The completed cable is shown in Photo 18.

 

The Microphone Cable (Version 1)

Photo 1

What you need

 

Here's what you'll need for the microphone cable:

  • 3-ft length of 2-conductor cable
  • 3.5mm mono plug
  • 2 inches of 3/32-in heat-shrink tubing
  • 3 inches of 3/16-in heat-shrink tubing
  • piezoelectric disc

Begin by cutting the 3/32" heat-shrink tubing into two 1-inch lengths and slip them onto the red and black wires of the piezo disc as shown in Photo 1. Then strip the ends of the wires about 3/4".

Photo 2

Stripping the cable

 

From one end of the gray 2-conductor cable, strip the gray insulation back 3/4". Then strip each of the red and black wires 3/4" as shown in Photo 2.

Photo 3

Photo 4

Splicing the wires

 

Twist the red wire of the piezo disc around the black wire of the 2-conductor cable. Likewise, twist the black wire of the disc around the red wire of the cable. See Photo 3.

 

 

 

Solder the connections. The result is shown in Photo 4.

Photo 5

Photo 6

Adding the heat-shrink tubing

 

Slip the heat-shrink tubing over the soldered wires and run a lighter or match flame under the tubing to shrink it but not so close as to burn the tubing. See Photo 5.

 

 

 

Slip the 3" section of 3/16" heat-shrink tubing onto the cable and over the spliced connections. Heat shrink it into place. The result is shown in Photo 6.

3.5mm mono plug

Photo 7

Photo 8

Photo 9

Photo 10

Photo 11

Photo 12

Photo 13

Connecting the 3.5mm plug

 

The microphone cable will connect to the project box enclosure with a 3.5mm mono plug. One is shown in Photo 7.

 

 

Remove the jacket from the plug and slip it over the cut end of the cable. The threaded end must be toward the cut end of the cable. Strip back the gray insulation on the free end of the cable about 1/4" and then strip the insulation on the red and black wires about 1/8". See Photo 8.

 

 

 

Insert the stripped wires into the holes on the terminals of the 3.5mm mono connector. The red wire goes in the shorter terminal as shown in Photo 9. Don't crimp the metal tabs around the cable yet, as this will cause the insulation to melt when you solder.

 

 

 

 

Solder the connections. Since there's so much metal, it will take some time for the soldering iron to heat the metal. Tin the tip of the soldering iron with solder first. Then hold the tip of the iron flat on the metal to heat it up in the vicinity of where you want to solder. Touch the solder to metal and wait for it to start flowing. This is the way to ensure a good electrical connection rather than a cold solder joint. The completed solder job is shown in Photo 10.

 

 

 

 

Clip off any stray wires and then crimp the metal tabs around the gray cable as shown in Photo 11.

 

 

 

 

The completed connector is shown in Photo 12.

 

 

 

 

The completed cable is shown in Photo 13.

 

Preparing an external input cable

 

The external input allows the delay unit of the Multi-Trigger PCB to be used with any HiViz.com trigger circuit or, in fact, any circuit that provides a short circuit output. The external input can also be used with a simple contact trigger such as the one shown here.

 

Parts for an external input cable aren't included in the kit. In order to prepare an external input cable, simply add a 3.5mm mono plug to one end of a 2-conductor cable like you did for the microphone cable above. The other end of the cable will connect to the output of your external trigger circuit. The connector that you use for that end will depend on the external trigger that you're using.

 

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Preparing a trigger cable

 

The trigger cable isn't provided with the MT-PCB3 kit, because there are different methods of connecting to a flash unit. You may have purchased one of our trigger cable kits to use with the MT-PCB3. If so, follow the online instructions for your kit to prepare the cable. Three versions of completed trigger cables are shown below.

PC cable ready to connect to PCB Hot shoe adapter ready to connect to PCB Trigger cable for Vivitar 283

PC plug to RCA plug

Hot shoe adapter to RCA plug

Vivitar 283-type plug to RCA plug

 

This completes the assembly. You're ready to test the Multi-Trigger. Go on to the operating instructions.

 

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